This past Thanksgiving weekend, I was subjected to an unexpected visit from parents who live in another country, and whom I hadn't seen in four years.
The merits or liabilities of such an event aside, part of the visit involved, of course, feasting in a grand manner.
On their last evening in NYC, my parents took my brother and his wife and daughter, Husband, and me to The Post House for a farewell dinner. This is one of New York City's most renowned steakhouses, and, as far as my father is concerned, a dining Mecca. They specialize in dry aged steaks, and they charge a serious price for them.
"Dry aged beef." What a buzzword. We see it bandied about everywhere, from medium to top-priced restaurants, often worn as a badge of honor.
But do we really known what dry aging really means?
These steakhouses would have us believe that dry aging is some arcane secret, only available to those who have received extensive training, have complicated equipment, and therefore are allowed to charge mere mortals outrageous prices for the privilege of feasting on the product of their sorcery. They want you to believe that if you were to try doing it at home, it would kill you.
If that were the case, Husband and I would have been dead a year ago.
The reality is that dry aging is easy. You need meat, a rack, and a fridge. And patience.
Dry aging is the art of turning an ordinary piece of meat into a sublime experience by putting it in the fridge and ignoring it for a minimum of three weeks. The meat will lose some moisture, which will concentrate and intensify the flavor. Also, the enzymes inside the meat will begin to break down the fibers, and tenderize the meat. The less polite definition is that dry aged meat is just meat that is in the early stages of decomposition, but it is controlled decomposition.
Here is what I do:
1. Make room in the refrigerator for a large rectangular rack. Mine is a double-tier 11" x 17" cookie cooling rack. It MUST be a rack, because you want the meat to have air around it all the time.
Here is what I do:
1. Make room in the refrigerator for a large rectangular rack. Mine is a double-tier 11" x 17" cookie cooling rack. It MUST be a rack, because you want the meat to have air around it all the time.
I can fit a slab of strip loin and a slab of ribeye on this rack and age them simultaneously.
2. Get a full slab of beef from your local meat provider. Costco carries some lovely varieties. I have aged ribeye, strip (top loin) and sirloin. It can be bone-in or boneless. If you want to make prime rib for Christmas, then bone-in is nicer. Prime grade is nice, but Choice grade turns out just as delicious after the aging process. You want the WHOLE piece in the cryovac plastic wrapper. It will be about 15 pounds. Bring it home.
3. Unwrap the meat in your sink, and dry it off completely with paper towels.
4. Place the meat on the rack in the refrigerator, bone-side down if bone-in. I do fat-side down if boneless. It drips less into the bottom of the fridge, or the meat that's in the bottom rack.
5. Here comes the hard part: Ignore the meat for a minimum of 3 weeks (the longest I've had a steak aging was 9-1/2 weeks, but that was the end of a slab that we started cutting into after four weeks). It will get ugly on the outside, really ugly: dark, dry, even a bit moldy. Do not fear. This is nature creating a wrapper of beef jerky to protect the tender steak inside.
6. When you are ready to eat the meat, slice off from the end however much you need. It can be a single steak, or it can be the whole slab for a big party. The inside of the meat will have turned a lovely deep burgundy.
Here you can see the contrast between the scary outside and the succulent inside:
7. Trim off the leathery outside from the meat.
The scraps look like this:
If you have a dog, feed him the scraps, and he will love you forever.
8. Now you are ready to cook the steaks. This takes some experimentation, until you get the hang of it. Dry aged meat has less water than fresh meat, so it will cook faster. You will need to play with the temperature of your oven or stove, or the setting on your grill. For a prime rib roast, I would say to sear the outside at 500º F for 15 minutes, and then roast slowly at 325º or 300º until it reaches an internal temperature of about 125. If you don't have a meat thermometer, get one. IKEA sells a lovely (if fragile) one for about seven bucks. Don't do the usual 135º F recommended for non dry aged meat. Your roast will dry out and you will be very upset.
Here is a trimmed 2-bone, bone-in ribeye roast. It can feed anywhere from 2-5 people, depending on appetite levels and how much other food you are serving.
Here is the roast, cooked:
Here is the roast, sliced:
Dinner is served:
Bon appétit!














Excellent blog! Very informative, when I try this I will have total confidence (the pictures significantly added to the confidence quotient.)
ReplyDeleteQuestion: I have a fridge in the garage normally used for a beer cooler. What temperature would you suggest for the meat?
Jennifer
Whatever temperature your fridge normally runs should be okay. I have mine in the kitchen fridge, which gets opened and closed constantly. The meat still turns out beautiful.
ReplyDeleteJust remember, in years past, before our germ-phobic culture, people would hang slabs of meat from a hook in the cellar. It's not as if those were precision climate-controlled rooms.
I hope this helps.
Hi Carolina-
ReplyDeleteInteresting article, and I don't even cook! Sometime you'll have to blog on the other end of the spectrum of meat consumption: tartare. I won't touch the stuff, but my sister loves it.
Also-You mentioned the Post House. What do you think of The Old Homestead?
ReplyDeleteAge is catching up with me. I meant to inquire as to what you think of Peter Luger's over in Brooklyn, not the Old Homestead. (Nonetheless, I'm sure you have opinions on both of them!)
ReplyDeleteOh, Mommy, Mommy, thank you for the yummy scraps! Can I have some more, PLEASE????
ReplyDeleteYum, yum! Can I come to your house to eat when I'm in P3?
ReplyDeleteKatina (Katmandu)
Carolina ..thank you! My P3 treat!! I will make some and get it ready I can have it in a few weeks.
ReplyDeleteGood job Carolina, looks like we have both done our research. I like the raised rack - that's a good idea. Here is how I do it:
ReplyDeletehttp://foodobsessity.blogspot.com/2008/05/dry-aging-beef.html
Kevin
Hi Carolina, I have been trying to gather as much info on DIY dry aging beef. I was on another foodie forum reading various posts about it and read a post by a professional chef who claimed that you will only end up with a dryed out worthless piece of meat due to the cryovac process (and/or gas packaging of meat)rendering enzyme activity inoperable as he claimed the cryovacing kills the enzymes (which are the crucial ingredient).
ReplyDeleteApparently one has to start with a joint (or side) that has never been cryovaced or gas packaged.
But based on your experience I guess he didn't know what he was talking about. Would you please comment?
Thank you.
You have a wonderful blog.
Cheers, Barney.
Barney,
DeleteThe professional chef is invested in scaring you away from doing your own dry aging, as it would cut into his bottom line.
I haven't tried dry aging meat that hasn't be packed in cryovac. For starters, getting a whole slab of artisanal meat would be horribly expensive. Also, I have noticed that what dry aging does for a moderately priced piece of choice-grade meat is to narrow the flavor and quality gap with the pricier prime cuts.
I do wish that the meat that comes in a cryovac had a thicker fat cap. That would make the aging process a lot better, IMO. But, I work with what I can get.
Cheers,
C
great info, but most days my fridge is't as clean as yours. I'm thinking of aging a prime rib in a paper bag for a few weeks, thinking that the bag will allow for drying while keeping out all the fridge nasty. What do you think.Thanks- Vance
ReplyDeleteVance,
DeleteI would not cover it with a paper bag. The meat really does best when the air circulates freely around it. Make some room in your fridge and age your meat properly.
Also, you can age a half slab (4 bones), instead of a full 7-bone slab.
What is the smell like?
ReplyDeleteThere is no characteristic smell from the meat aging in the fridge uncovered like that. The meat trimmings smell a bit like beef jerky. The taste of the aged meat is nutty and sweet.
Delete